'Berry unusual

New Glarus Brewing Co. is a sacred -- or is it spotted? -- cow of the American craft-brewing movement. Anyone who's had its brews will tell you they're world class. The trouble is getting the beer.

Situated in a small, central Wisconsin town of the same name, New Glarus only distributes within the Wisconsin boarders. They claim it's because they can only make so much beer.

Whatever. I'm sure they could reach further than they do. It's a shame because so many beer lovers would love to snag their products.

I've gotten lucky a few times. My former boss is from Wisconsin, and she brought me some Spotted Cow and Fat Squirrel. But I've always wanted to try New Glarus' Wisconsin Belgian Red and Raspberry Tart -- both of which are ranked highly by Beer Advocate. Thanks to my generous buddy Mike, I got to try the latter.

And, boy, was it a trip of a beer experience.

The color is beautiful. It's a jewel-like reddish amber. The first thing that hits you is the smell -- sweet, full raspberries. The taste runs a quick gambit -- initially sweet, thing an acidic sting, then a tart bite. That sweet-tart flavor lingers on the tongue for a while after the swallow.

I'm not big on fruit beers. They're just so strange, but I like Raspberry Tart a lot better than Lindemans Framboise because New Glarus' offering is much more authentic-tasting and well-rounded.

And if you're going to drink a fruit beer, this is the one to try. In the style, it's world class. If you're not a cheese head, though, good luck finding it.


The details:
Name: Raspberry Tart
Brewer: New Glarus Brewing Co.
Beer Advocate rank: 60
Style: Fruit Beer
Alcohol: 4 percent
Cost: $8.50 for a 750-ml bottle
My Grade: B
Skinny: This doesn't drink much like a beer -- more like a sparkling wine or cider. It's a startling experience -- sweet and tart. While it's not my favorite beer by any means, it provides a really interesting drinking experience. It's especially good for dessert -- or girlfriends.