It's the end of the world

When I was a late-teenager, I visited Canada with my family. Because the drinking age was quite young there, I was able to legally drink beer. My dad and I decided we'd move beyond the regular Coors Light and try to become more enlightened beer drinkers.

We tried local Canadian beers like Labatt, Molson, Sleeman and other regional brews. They were all essentially light lagers. While they certainly boasted better craftsmanship than Bud and Coors, they weren't exactly cutting-edge craft brews. On a boat tour of the Saint Lawrence River near Quebec City, we ordered a local favorite -- La Fin du Monde.

Our Nebraska taste buds weren't ready for the complex Belgian-style triple. As my dad said, "It tasted sharp." I thought it tasted spicy and almost spoiled.

It tasted, well, like the end of the world.

La Fin du Monde translates literally as, "The end of the world." I still think it tastes that way -- but with a twist. It's a beer you want to taste at the end because it's so complex and rich it puts others to shame.

The beer pours a light gold with a delicate head. It smells yeasty -- almost like elaborate spices. It tastes the same. The yeast strains are so intricate, your tastes buds are almost overloaded. Your head spins trying to figure our what's going on. Then, quickly, the experience is over. The taste ends crisply, leaving you refreshed. You go back for more. Then the 9 percent alcohol hits you. And that's always a good thing.

I eventually did become a more enlightened beer drinker. After getting into Americanized imperial stouts and IPAs, I moved on to Belgian-style beers. Belgians are a trip, and that journey took me back to La Fin du Monde.

I grabbed a bottle at the wonderful Omaha beer store Beertopia this week. I brought it home to my dad. He laughed when he saw it -- both out of the Quebec memory and out of nervousness that I'd make him drink it. I had since broken him in on Belgians a bit, so I thought he might like it. I coaxed him into it.

He took a drink and nodded. "It's good," he said. "Real good."

I guess that trip to Quebec years ago is still giving us some culture.


The details:
Name: La Fin du Monde
Brewer: Unibroue
Beer Advocate rank: 91
Style: Belgian-style triple
Alcohol: 9 percent
Cost: $8 for a 750 ml bottle
My Grade: A
Skinny: If the world were ending, this is one of the last beers I'd want to drink. It's golden in color, packs a spicy, yeasty finish and boasts a nice 9-percent alcohol punch. Perfect for sipping in the summer or early fall. In terms of triples, it ranks only behind Westmalle in my book.

King of the mountains

Mt. Rainier is an incredible sight. At 14,411 feet, it towers over Washington. It explodes from sea level and on clear days dominates the horizon.

I was fortunate enough to snowshoe on its flanks on one of those clear days in February. The experience easily ranked at or near the top of my favorite treks on my West Coast swing. And it left me infatuated with getting on top of Rainier sometime in the near future.

My friend Chuck -- a University of Washington-Tacoma political communications professor -- had never been snowshoeing before. And I really wanted to mess around on Rainier. So we chose a popular and beautiful trail for an excursion.

Reflection and Louise lakes -- two pristine mountain ponds -- are nestled in the ridges and trees to the southeast of Mt. Rainier, or Mount Tahoma, as the natives call it.

The trail started out steep just beyond a warming hut at the Narada Falls parking lot. The traverse along a sheer, exposed face had Chuck and I wondering about avalanches and our own stamina. Both worries were moot.

The trail gained a ridge with jaw-dropping views of Rainier. Seeing the mountain pop out from behind snow-covered pines almost took my breath away. It's a cliche, but it's true.

We followed the ridge to another steep section. At its crest, it quickly dove into a narrow ridge filled with more tall pines. After a short romp, the trees opened to reveal Reflection Lake. Rugged peaks circled the lake.

Another short trek would have taken us to Louise Lake, but it was late in the day, and we played it safe. The trek back to the car revealed more amazing views of Rainier.

It truly is king of the mountains in that region. And it looms large in my mind and on my list of peaks I want to summit.

The details:
Reflection Lakes via Mazama Ridge
Location: Near Mt. Rainier, 8 miles northeast of Longmire, Wash.
Length: 5 miles
Beginning elevation: 4,500 feet
Peak elevation: 5,100 feet
Difficulty (out of 5): 2

All hail the king

Maharaja in Sanskrit means "great king." Take a sip of Avery Brewing's Maharaja Imperial India Pale Ale, and you'll see that the name is apt.

With all due respect to Budweiser -- which isn't much -- Maharaja is a true king of beers. Despite its "Imperial" name, Maharaja is a double IPA. It tastes similar to Ninkasi's Tricerahops but bigger and better in about every way.

The hoppy aroma is rich. It boasts a ridiculously bitter hoppy bite up front. There certainly is a lot of maltiness on the backend, but it blends nicely with the hops. The alcohol content is huge -- 10+ percent.

The only problem: The Maharaja has a short reign. It's a seasonal brew, available March through August.

So get it while you can. This beer just may be the best that Boulder-based Avery produces. It's certainly one of the best double IPAs this side of the West Coast.


The details:
Name: Maharaja Imperial India Pale Ale
Brewer: Avery Brewing
Beer Advocate rank: NR
Style: Double IPA
Alcohol: 10.27 percent
Cost: $8 for a 500 ml bottle
My Grade: A
Skinny: This beer reigns supreme in every way -- its name, its rich flavor, its high alcohol content. If you're a double IPA fan, it's a must drink. You won't abdicate this beer anytime soon.

Super Sedona

Sedona, Ariz., is one of those places I'd heard about forever but never visited. I was curious what I'd find. I'd heard that the hiking is amazing, that hippies love the place because of its vortex energy and that rich people have taken it over and made it Arizona's Aspen.

After driving from LA to Flagstaff, Ariz., and crashing on some North Arizona University basketball players' couch, I drove down to Sedona to check it out.

I was highly impressed.

The place reminds me of a more wide-sweeping and beautiful version of Grand Junction, Colo. Red rock spires and mesas pop out of the desert surroundings. It's dramatic.

After stopping at the Sedona visitor's center, I settled on a 5.5-mile hike that cuts through valleys and over mesas in the northern part of Sedona.

Because I got an early start, I beat a lot of the tourists to the trail. So I hiked more or less alone along the red-dirt trails. The path swerved through pinon and juniper trees. Large cacti covered the ground in spots.

The hike followed three trails: Cibola Pass (a standard-looking trail), Soldier Pass (basically a jeep trail) and Brins Mesa (another standard trail). The loop was fairly easy. The end of Soldier Pass boasted some steep sections (which two sports-bra-wearing female trail runners had no trouble taking in swift strides).

It needs to be noted I hike this trail in mid-March. So it was chilly. In the summer, it could be dangerous. The surrounding desert is hot and dry. Without ample water and smart clothing choices, you could find yourself frying.

All in all, though, Sedona shouldn't be missed. The scenery is spectacular, and I reckon you could hike there for years and not find all of the amazing trails.



The details:
Cibola Pass, Soldier Pass, Brins Mesa loop
Location: About 2 miles north of Sedona, Ariz., at the Jordan Road parking lot.
Length: 5.5 miles
Beginning elevation: 4,500 feet
Peak elevation: 5,300 feet
Difficulty (out of 5): 2

One for the ages

Here's a three-horned approach you should take if you ever visit Eugene, Ore.:

1. Run Pre's Trail. (It's a flat but often rainy 4 miles.)

2. Visit the Pizza Research Institute. (The pie with baked spicy tofu, roasted garlic and black olives is wicked good.)

3. Drink lots of Tricerahops from Ninkasi Brewing Co., preferably at its very modern, very hip tasting room.

With a name like Tricerahops, the beer has to be big. And it is. The double IPA gores you right away with a ridiculous scent of hops. Then you get that piny bite with the first sip. It finished with considerable malt -- maybe just a bit too much for me.

But make no mistake, this beer should never go extinct. It's one of my favorite double IPAs out there.

Ninkasi is a super-cool brewery, as well. It's young -- founded in 2006. But it's one of the fastest up-and-comers in the brewing world. The brewery is named after the Sumerian Goddess of fermentation. The brewery's Web site tells the rest of the story.


The details:
Name: Tricerahops
Brewer: Ninkasi Brewing Co.
Beer Advocate rank: NR
Style: Double IPA
Alcohol: 8.8 percent
Cost: $5 for a 500 ml bottle
My Grade: A
Skinny: It's a dinosaur-big beer with a really piny bite followed by some really strong malt. The only reason it doesn't get an A+ is because the hop bite and malt finish don't match up as well as, say, Pliny the Elder.

My son on the summit

I remember long ago when one of my friend's parents led us on a hike through Nebraska's Halsey forest. It was a Cub Scout outing, and the event very much fit the scouting mission.

But I hated the hike. It was long and hot. I cursed the parent for pushing me further and completing it.

The memory rushed back last week when leading my 4-year-old son on his first Colorado summit bid. When pitching a spring break roadtrip to Colorado and Utah, I told Rye we'd climb some mountains. He seemed excited.

As we drove from my friend Leif's Boulder apartment to the base of Mt. Sanitas, Rye squealed: "The mountains are so cool. Colorado is the best place in the world." He even said he wished his hometown of Omaha had mountains.

When we started hiking, he ran up the steep stair-like trail. He squirmed out on rock overhangs. He moved those little legs like pistons.

About an hour into the hike, things changed. He had tripped over a rock and hurt his hands. His legs were tired. The wind was getting colder. "I hate this mountain," he said. He begged to turn around. He had come to curse me like I had that Cub Scout parent.

So I picked him up and slung him on my back. I trudged up the steep, rocky trail with my son on my back for the last half mile. Eventually, we reached the top. I got the summit high. It always feels amazing to get to the top. I was even more stoked to have my son with me.

Rye didn't feel the same way. Look at the pictures. He was tired and in pain. He didn't even want to smile for the cameras. I gave him a granola bar and some apple juice. Then I started to carry him down the steep stretches.

Eventually, though, he perked up. He squirmed down onto the trail and jumped off small rocks. He ran down steep patches. He joked that we'd left his beloved bankie at the top of the mountain, and we'd have to go down to get it.

Maybe the granola bar and juice pumped up his blood sugar. Maybe he was elated to be going down the mountain instead of up, toward quesadillas at Qdoba instead of exposed, windy mountain peaks.

Or maybe -- just maybe -- he's got a little mountaineer inside him. Maybe he'll be like his dad, hating hikes as a youngster but loving them as a man.

The details:
Mt. Sanitas
Location: On the western edge of Boulder, Colo., beginning at Sunshine Canyon
Length: 3 miles
Beginning elevation: 5,506 feet
Peak elevation: 6,863 feet
Difficulty (out of 5): 2 (4, with a 45-pound 4-year-old on your back)

Best of the breweries

A big portion of my trip through the West was to visit some of the best breweries not only in the country but the world. Here are the best:

10. Big Sky Brewing, Missoula, Mont.
A shed near an airport never produced stuff that tastes this good. Big Sky is known for its Moose Drool brown ale, but they have more adventurous stuff on tap. The brewery skews nice on the inside with lots of swag for sale.

9. Kettlehouse, Missoula
Big Sky gets all the Missoula props,, but Kettlehouse makes better beers. Cold Smoke Scotch ale is their top-seller, but their IPA is darn good. The brewery is a dump -- basically a loading bay. It's usually packed with University of Montana students. Cool atmosphere.

8. Stone, Escondido, Calif.
This is by far the nicest brewery I've ever visited. It's in a huge pristine building. It has a swank restaurant. It even has its own hiking trail that surrounds a beautiful outdoor beer garden.There's a free tour with free tastings. I like some of their beers -- Double Bastard is awesome -- but most don't do a whole lot for me, which is why Stone doesn't rank higher.

7. Avery, Boulder, Colo.
I've been there three times, and it never gets old. They make some awesomely over-the-top beers. Maharaja Imperial IPA is amazing. The Beast is darn good, too. It's all available at the taphouse for $1-4 for small tasters. They offer a free tour but no free booze. The guys there are cool, as are the fellow drinkers.

6. Oskar Blues, Lyons, Colo.
In between Boulder and Estes Park is Oskar Blues. Their known for two things: a great Imperial Stout called Ten FIDY and for being one of the first craft breweries to can their beer. But it's also a very fun place to drink. I had an unfiltered IPA called Gubna that was a really interesting beer. Plus, the ladies tending bar are really cute.

5. North Coast, Fort Bragg, Calif.
As if making the amazing Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout wasn't enough, the brewery sits right along the rugged Northern California Coast. The English-style bar features all the North Coast favorites and a few experimental beers. The brewery is being renovated and wasn't open for a tour, which is a bummer.

4. Ninkasi, Eugene, Ore.
This is one of the top up-and-coming breweries in America (probably behind only The Bruery in the LA area, which I unfortunately didn't get to visit.) Ninkasi makes some really good beers, highlighted by the double IPA Tricerahops. The tasting room has a modern, bright feel. Plus it's close to the Pizza Research Institute, which is a very good thing.

3. Lost Abbey/Port Brewing, San Marcos, Calif.
The atmosphere is awesome in this one brewery that houses two brands. The tasting room is in the loading bay of the brewery. The chairs are kegs topped with bags of sugar. (The resident cat Amarillo is pictured above sitting on one.) The beers are incredible. The Lost Abbey beers are some of the best Belgian styles made in America. The Port beers are hoppy San Diego classics. I was the only visitor there one afternoon and ended up drinking Duck Duck Gooze with head brewer Tomme Arthur at the bar.

2. Russian River, Santa Rosa, Calif.
Best beer. Period. Pliny the Elder. All the world-class sours. When it comes to beer it can't be beat. And the vegetarian sandwich with big hunks of mozzarella and roasted red peppers didn't hurt things either. But Russian River lacks atmosphere. It's just a brewpub with no public tour. That kind of stinks, and it doesn't match up with its reputation. That said, the beer stands on its own. It's worth the trip just for the sips.

1. Diamond Knot, Mukilteo, Wash.
Four words: This place kicks ass. The brewpub sits on the Puget Sound. Just feet away, ferries shuttle cars to and from Whidby Island. A blond little person is the featured waitress. I wanted to be the heavily bearded bartender. Patrons crunch peanuts and toss the shells on the floor. And -- not to be ignored -- the beer is amazing. The IPA is one of my favorites ever. I could hang out in this place all day everyday.

Urban exploring

I gotta admit part of me dreaded visiting LA. I don't really like big cities. I certainly don't like plastic people. I absolutely hate gridlock traffic.

I encountered all that. But my friend Dustin, a larder manager at the swank Tavern, showed me a cool oasis of nature in the urban jungle.

We hiked a couple trails at Will Rogers State Historical Park . The trail begins just off Sunset Boulevard near Santa Monica. Many parts of "Curb Your Enthusiasm" have been filmed in the area. But those scenes focus on the restaurants and multimillion-dollar houses in the area.

The trail itself is a very easy walk, culminating at Inspiration Point. The view is inspiring, with nice looks at Malibu, Santa Monica, the Pacific Ocean, downtown LA and the mountains in the distance.

To extend the trip, we meandered on a more secluded path for what seemed like hours. It wound near a creek and through suburban neighborhoods. It was odd being in such a huge city but walking on a border with nature.

I guess that's the beauty of the West. Civilization connects with still-wild lands. I never thought I'd see that dichotomy in LA.

The details:
Inspiration Point
Location: Will Rogers State Historical Park, near Sunset and Evans in Pacific Palisades, Calif.
Length: 2 miles (can be extended with other trails)
Beginning elevation: 350 feet
Peak elevation: 750 feet
Difficulty (out of 5): 1

Best bars in the West

Every major town has at least one beer lover's bar. I hit up quite a few of them on my swing through the West. Here are the best six:

6. Father's Office, Los Angeles.
Huge selection in a very small space. Pricey, as is expected in LA, but you can get almost any style of beer you want.

5. Brouwer's, Seattle.
Sixty-four beers on tap. A faux-Belgian layout. This is probably the haven for Seattle-area brew lovers. The downside is it has a bit of pretension because of it.

4. Bottleworks, Seattle.
Technically, this is a beer store. But they have three to five beers on tap everyday. It's very low-key and often features hard-to-find beers.

3. Horse Brass, Portland.
An English-style pub, but this one is actually very authentic. The beer list is staggeringly long. This is the perfect place to drink after a long day snowshoeing on Mt. Hood. Getting so hammered you sleep in your car is completely optional. But likely.

2. Toronado, San Francisco.
Located in the famous Haight district, this bar is a must-visit in SF. Huge beer list, very cheap happy hour prices and an awesome sausage joint next door.

1. The Dray, Seattle.
A small, clean spot with just a few beers on tap. But, man, those beers are awesome. The owner has agreements with Belgian breweries. Often, The Dray will have the only keg of a Belgian beer sent abroad. The bartenders are awesome and friendly. Their music selections are killer.

Three Seattle honorable mentions: Uber, Naked City and Hopvine